Wednesday, 24 April 2013

A Walk 2

I was up and about early next morning, no blankets saw to that. Had breakfast with the family, then got blankets and apologies from the mother.

I had decided to walk a piece of The Lycian Way that goes from the village up onto a large headland at the east end of Patara beach. It hugs the coast and loops back overland to the village again.

The owner gave me some initial directions, 3 cucumbers, a tomato and an orange. This reminded me of my last trip along the Way with Serena, so I bought a bottle of water and set out, hoping it wouldn't rain. 

Leaving Gelemis village

A small road took me away from the village and up steeply until I hit the top of the headland. From there I could see the whole length of the beach and the ruins I'd visited the day before. But it was the ocean that held my attention. I don't think I've ever seen such beautiful water - not even in Thailand.

The Lycian Way marker overlooking Patara ruins and beach

Using the zoom lens I could see my wonderful columns!

Patara Ruins

The track meandered past small farms where people got on with their days oblivious to the beauty around them.

Just another day on the farm
It was hot and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The headland was much bigger than I'd guessed, and around each corner more and more of it came into view.

I stopped for lunch after walking for about 3 hours. Never tasted better cucumbers.

Patara was out of sight behind me, but the views remained exhilarating. Now, I was discovering new islands around each bend of the track.

The sea had an almost hypnotic effect on me. I couldn't take my eyes off it. There was a yellowish band in it caused by heavy rain washing mud from the local river into the sea.

I checked my clock and realised I'd been walking for five hours and was still moving along the coast AWAY from Gelemis. I'd been enjoying the walk so much I hadn't realised the time. When would the path start looping back?

I passed more islands in perfect waters and then the track started a long, long ascent that took the wind out of me.

Finally I met a couple of Americans coming down towards me. They told me that a kilometer on from us there was a highway and a kebab shop. I nearly kissed the guy. They'd waited there for an hour hoping to catch a minibus but had had no luck. They'd decided to head back the way I'd come.

"But, it's taken me over 5 hours to get here, man. And it's nearly 5 o'clock now!"
"Yeah, but we don't want to walk down the highway - it's 6km to the Patara turnoff, then 3 to Gelemis."
"That sounds easier than what I've just done!"
"It'll be cool."
"OK, I'll try the highway and if I ever get back I'll send a chopper after you."

I made it to the highway kebab shop. I tore through a chicken shish and skulled half a litre of ice cold lager. It went straight to my head. I really fancied a lie down in a hammock.

Instead I walked 6km along the hard-shoulder of a hot, dusty highway. It took me an hour.

Just after I turned off onto the road to Gelemis I was picked up by a friendly villager and delivered to Rose Pensiyon.

The owner and his wife were waiting.
"Beautiful, yes?"
"Yes, but far."
"Oh yes, 24km."
15 miles. Christ...
"I'm going to have a shower and a rest."
"Very good. How were the cucmbers?"

Owner and Wife

Last thing. I like the following photo but haven't come up with a caption for it. So, caption competition anyone?


  1. caption contest.

    you look like a fella who likes a cucumber. would you like to meet our son?

  2. Alarming caption...but the winner by default!